Biodyes 101: The colorful future of fashion

Can biodyes help the fashion industry get the same vibrant colors without the huge environmental cost? The research says: maybe.

The fashion industry is responsible for 20% of global industrial wastewater and the dyeing process alone uses 5 trillion liters of water every year, according to the World Resources Institute. A conventional dyeing process uses 200 tons of water to produce just one ton of dyed fabric — not a great ratio for the planet. And that’s not to mention the often toxic by-products.

Biotech companies are creating sustainable alternatives that aim to maintain performance while reducing the environmental impact.

What’s the problem with current fabric dyeing methods?

The problem with current fabric dyeing methods is that there are significant negative environmental and health effects. Today’s most common dyes are almost entirely synthetic, in particular azo dyes, representing up to 70% of the market. These dyes are effective and inexpensive and have been the industry standard for decades. However, these petroleum-derived dyes come at a cost.

5 downsides of synthetic dyes

1. High water consumption
   Standard dyeing practices require a ratio of up to 200 tons of water to dye 1 ton of fabric
2. Chemically intensive
   This dying process often requires harsh acids, alkalis, fixatives — all of which have to be dealt with before, during, and after use
3. Wastewater containing toxic compounds
   Beyond pure water use, the wastewater from this process can contain toxic compounds, which often enter the water stream untreated
4. Energy-intensive process
   Using these dyes requires very high temperatures, which makes the production costly both in expenses and environmental impact due to high energy requirements
5. Health concerns
   Evidence links some synthetic dyes to cancer and other health issues, which is especially a concern for frontline workers in the manufacturing process

Understandably, designers and manufacturers want to find alternatives to these costly (in more ways than one!) dyes. Enter biodyes.

What are biodyes?

Biodyes are colorants produced through biological processes or derived from living organisms. Pigments from plants and other organisms have been used for natural dyeing for millennia. Now, modern biotechnology allows us to identify the genes responsible for pigment production and engineer these for industrial applications using genetically modified organisms (GMOs). This process can help develop scalable and sustainable dyeing processes.

Biodyes can range from directly extracting natural pigments to sophisticated engineered molecules produced by microorganisms in industrial fermentation processes.

4 ways to make a biodye

Biodyes are not a single technology but a whole toolkit for sustainable dying methods, each with advantages for specific applications, fiber types, and color needs. There are other methods in development, but here are four that are gaining traction in the industry.

1. Algal fermentation

Tel Aviv biotech company Algaeing, founded in 2016, is using algae to develop biodyes, including producing a line of yarn dyed with this process.

2. Bacterial fermentation

Bacteria are easily engineered and can be deposited directly from the fermentor onto fabrics, without additional processing required. This method is seeing early investment from H&M, which is backing UK-based Colorifix.

3. Yeast fermentation

Biodyes from yeast are already being used commercially in some cases, such as making indigo dye for denim. California-based Huue, founded in 2019, uses biotech to remove the need for toxic chemicals and petroleum in denim. They raised US$14.6M Series A in 2022.

4. Enzymatic synthesis

This process combines biology and green chemistry by modifying molecules after fermentation. Copenhagen-based Octarine Bio raised US$4M in Series A funding.

Benefits of biodyes

The benefits of biodyes could be far reaching, from health and environment to reducing costs. However, scaling production for efficiency is the next challenge. Here are three benefits to incorporating biodye technology into your fabrics:

1. Reduced environmental impact
   Using biodyes can lead to a 50-100x reduction in water use compared to traditional dyeing. In addition, these dyes use renewable feedstocks and usually generate biodegradable waste, instead of toxic byproducts. Finally, milder processing conditions require less energy.
2. Worker health and safety
   Fewer hazardous chemicals and other safety improvements will reduce the negative impact on workers throughout the supply chain, from production facilities to wastewater treatment.
3. Efficiency gains
   The lower temperatures and milder pH from biodyeing not only has a positive environmental impact, but also can control costs, preserve fabric integrity, and reduce equipment wear and tear. In addition, some biodye methods can streamline processes. For example, Colorifix combines dyeing and fixing into a single step.

What challenges are preventing biodye dominance?

Several challenges face biodyeing before it can become the dominant industry method. From consistent performance to costs and scalability, these obstacles must be overcome to achieve widespread industry adoption.

Performance limitations remain a primary concern

Many biodyes have lower color intensity and reduced color fastness, meaning the colors may not last as long as traditional dyes. As well, where synthetic dyes offer literally thousands of precise color options, the palette of biodyes is still limited.

The biodye price premium challenges scalability

Fermentation processes can be challenging and expensive to scale. These production costs and scale limitations mean biodyes need to deliver a clear sustainability impact to convince brands, manufacturers,, and consumers of the value.

Technical integration will take time

Most conventional dyeing facilities will require modifications to accommodate biological processes. As well as adaptation could be required for supply chains and in storage as products with shorter shelf lives or increased sensitivity to environmental conditions enter the market. Quality control can be a challenge with biological processes as biological variability can make batch-to-batch color consistency difficult to maintain.

Increased market awareness is required

While many consumers express interest in more sustainable fashion, there is limited customer understanding of biodyes and their benefits. Brands will need to invest in education about the advantages to increase demand and justify premium pricing.

Biodyes on the market

Biodyes is not new and retail brands have been partnering with biotech firms to innovate their designs and fabrics with science.

• Pangaia and Colorifix - Pangaia in 2021 launched their first biodyed sweatsuits in blue pink using bacteria found in organisms.
• Citizens for Humanity and Pili - french-based Pili used their Eco-Indigo to create classic denim looks.
• Organic Basics and Algaeing - Organic Basics “Algae Life” line uses Algaeing dyes exclusively made for the underwear brand.
• Patrick McDowell and Octarine - Luxury fashion brand Patrick McDowell showed several garments dyed with Octarine Bio’s sustainable dye brand, PurePalette™ at London Fashion Week in September 2024.

The future of biodyes

As biodye technology matures, we can expect expanded color ranges, performance improvements, and cost reductions. It will take time, but these technologies will continue to scale and eventually transform one of the most environmentally problematic parts of fashion production into a more sustainable process.